Pope Francis is known for his simple tastes, including his love for dulce de leche gelato. This preference, a taste of his Argentine homeland, has become symbolic of his down-to-earth approach—a contrast to the opulent backdrop of the Vatican. For those seeking a unique pilgrimage, the Via Francigena offers an unexpected route to experience this world firsthand.
The Ancient Path Rediscovered
The Via Francigena is a millennium-old pilgrimage stretching 1,200 miles from Canterbury, England, to St. Peter’s Basilica in Vatican City. After centuries of neglect, the route was resurrected in the early 2000s through the combined efforts of local councils, volunteers, and the European Association of the Via Francigena. The modern revival is a testament to the dedication of groups like the self-styled ‘Group of 12’, who have brought this historic trail back to life.
A Walk Through Italian Landscapes
A recent 30-mile section of the Via Francigena began in Castel Gandolfo, home to the Pope’s summer palace. Though Francis himself never frequented the location, deeming it too extravagant, he opened the palace grounds to the public. The surrounding Barberini Gardens, a stunning blend of Renaissance design and natural beauty, offer a glimpse into Rome’s imperial past.
The trail then leads through woodlands circling Lake Albano, an extinct volcanic caldera now protected by the Castelli Romani Regional Park. Rangers patrol the area, guarding against illegal logging and fires, demonstrating Italy’s commitment to preserving its forests—39% of the country is wooded, a stark contrast to the UK’s 10%. The route also follows ancient Roman flagstones, first documented in 990 AD by Archbishop Sigeric the Serious on his journey from Rome.
Hidden Gems and Local Delights
The Via Francigena is more than just a walk; it’s an immersive experience. Stops include the charming village of Nemi, famous for its alpine strawberries grown in volcanic soil, and a visit to the vineyard of Carlo Attisano, Pope Francis’ personal sommelier. Attisano mixes local and French varietals to create wines that even the Pope enjoys (though he reportedly prefers orange juice).
As Italy prepares for the 2025 Jubilee year, the trail is receiving updates, including new wood-bark paths in the Appia Antica Regional Park. The expected influx of 35 million pilgrims will test the route’s infrastructure, but the trail remains accessible to those seeking a more authentic experience.
The Vatican From a New Perspective
The Via Francigena offers a unique vantage point on the Vatican—from behind. Unlike the crowded tourist routes, this path leads to a quieter, more intimate experience. From here, one can observe the city’s everyday life, from nuns and monks sharing moments to locals enjoying picnics and even smoking weed, all within sight of the Vatican walls.
The final stretch takes you through a railway tunnel, once used by the Pope, towards St. Peter’s Square. Completing the pilgrimage earns you a Testimonium, a modern-day equivalent of the medieval plenary indulgence.
In essence, the Via Francigena is a blend of history, nature, and culture—a walk that offers a fresh perspective on faith, tradition, and the simple pleasures of life.
